Select Artwork for Larger View and Item List
"Ctrl P" to Print
Soldered Jewelry
by Snow DavidsonWhen I decided to write an article on soldered jewelry, I have to admit I hadn’t really did very much soldering. I found that just playing around was the way to learn. It did take a few pieces, well several, before I really got the hang of it. The great thing I found out was I could take wire cutters and remove the solder and tape to start over on the piece if the soldering wasn’t right.
The first thing I want to tell you is about the items you will need and what you use them for. I couldn’t find the items in town so I had to go online to order them. If you have a stained glass store you might check there for them.
Soldering iron - Used to melt solder. For jewelry or craft soldering use a 75-100 watt iron.
Foil tape - Copper foiling is the surface upon which you solder. It comes in widths from 1/8” to 1/2”. The choice is determined by the thickness of the glass you use. Silvered copper tape is available, and although more expensive than regular copper tape, it is good for beginners because you don’t have to cover all the visible tape.
Sal Ammonia - Used for keeping the tip of you iron clean and tinned, therefore making the flow of solder easier and faster. Use it only when necessary and avoid breathing the fumes.
Flux - Used to adhere solder to the copper tape. Leftover flux can corrode the solder and leave it appearing dull, so clean your soldered piece well with a flux cleaner or soap and water.
Solder - I used lead free solder as lead causes cancer and other health problems. For decorative soldering, lead-free solder works wonderfully; however, it melts at a higher temperature than a lead solder, so you need to replace your tip more often.
Patinas - Patinas change the color of the solder which is normally silver in color. Color options include black and copper.
Soldering Jig - Useful in adding jump rings to soldered pieces. You can make it from heat-resistant material found at a home improvement store.
In each project, the direction are all the same. Make sure you start with a clean piece.
Drag the tip of the iron across a wet sponge when darks spots start appearing. When the solder gets difficult to melt, try cleaning the tip of the iron with sal ammonia.
If the solder appears to be too thin, try applying another layer.
Dab the edge of your flux-saturated cotton swab off before applying to the copper tape. Too much flux can cause gritty solder and oxidation.
THE MOST IMPORTANT THING FOR THE FOIL TO ADHERE TO THE EDGES OF THE GLASS, IT MUST BE SQUEEKIE CLEAN!!! If the foil does not adhere, the pieces will fall apart, no matter how much solder is applied! The foil will have paper on the back to protect the glue from getting dirty. Peel back a small amount of the paper and center the foil on the edge of the clean glass and press into place…keep moving along the entire outer edge, and then overlap the beginning by 1/4”. Cut with scissors. Using a bone folder, burnish all edges. Turn, and press the foil on the inner edges till there are no wrinkles. It must lay nice and smooth. Turn on your soldering iron. Wet the sponge. Flux one section at a time. Put on mask.
Wipe the hot tip of the iron on the sponge; this removes dust so the solder will flow easier. After each application, wipe iron, and then wipe again before using. Unravel about 4" of solder. Place hot iron on foil with solder next to tip so it will flow, moving slowly down the fluxed area of foil. Do one section at a time until all the pieces are together. When everything is soldered, use flux remover, or soap and water, to remove all flux.
On my first project, I made a necklace using three glass stones and jump rings. After wrapping the pieces with copper tape, I used a clothes pin to hold the pieces while I was soldering them. I added flux to two sides then soldered them, let cool and turned them to do the other sides. After all three were finished, I used pliers to hold the jump rings to solder them on each piece.
The giraffe slide necklace was made with a transfer ironed to a glass slide. The light shows through the slide when you wear it. This technique would be so pretty with just about any transfer.
On the cabochon pin, I first made a transfer and glued it to the cabochon. When soldering the edge, it took me a few tries to make the solder look some what like silver beading. The transfer held up very well to the heat of the solder gun.
After trying to make the solder look like beading, I thought I would try to make the solder look different on another pin. I really like the look I got on the Madonna pin. I just kept lifting the soldering iron up and down while adding the solder.
I love bracelets. I knew I wanted to try to make one. But I had no idea how to hold the pieces together. The solder isn’t strong enough. I decided to make a charm bracelet and earrings to match. You could make them in any color by adding the color with Ranger’s alcohol inks.
I hope you enjoy this article as much as I did. The best advice came from my friend Judy Cantrell. Practice!!
Snow Davidson snowdavidson@ssreflections.com
Snowstamper@ctcweb.net
Reflections Publishing Group, LLC
This entire web site © Copyright Reflections Publishing Group Legal Statement
***Disclaimers - While individual techniques may vary, always follow product manufacturers' directions and cautions for safety and best results.
LINK TO NEXT PAGE•Read our Current Newsletter•